An Intristang Guide to Mexico City

Mexico City is one of my favorite cities in the world, and after spending the last few weeks there, I think I’m ready to share my first city guide with y’all. I’ve been to Mexico City eight times (two of which were 24-48 hour layovers so maybe more like six), and at this point I’ve spent about 7-8 weeks in CDMX (Ciudad de México). No one asked, but hopefully this gives me some sort of credibility? 

There are many reasons I love this city, but I think it boils down to a few things: the incredible food scene, typically fantastic weather, walkability/greenery, and how inexpensive it is. If you follow this guide a bit, you should have a good time (I hope!). 

How people experience a city is very personal and subjective. With that said, the best way to use this guide is to try the first thing (or one of the “things”) from one of the headings below. If you enjoy it, try the second. If not, maybe I’m not your soulmate for said category. As always, if you have any questions or if I missed any of your favorite spots, please let me know in the comments!  

If you do 3 things in Mexico City…

I want to kick off with a semi tl;dr. If you leave here without reading much of this post, I want to share three things you (IMO) have to do in Mexico City. 

Grab a taco (or 15)

I debated going with “eating an al pastor taco” but realized I should broaden it up–especially since my favorite tacos in the city aren’t even al pastor. Most people won’t leave Mexico City without trying a taco (or several), but I thought it was worth highlighting as the number one thing to do in Mexico City. Mexico City has hundreds of taquerias, many of which specialize in a certain type of taco or meat. I highly recommend finding a few taco spots and ordering what they’re famous for. 

This article (https://www.bloomberg.com/features/2017-mexico-city-best-tacos/) is coming up on four years since publication, but the reason it’s my favorite is that they interviewed famous chefs from around the world on their favorite taco spots in CDMX. 

Go see the cathedral 

Again, another no brainer, but I think it’s worth stating. Regardless of where you stay in Mexico City, you are likely to at least spend a day or part of a day in Centro Historico. While there’s many things to do and see there, it’s hard to miss the gorgeous cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana de la Ciudad de México) and the surrounding Zócalo.

Mexican fine dining

As much as I’m advocating for tacos, I think it’s crucial to experience Mexico City’s fine dining scene. While this certainly can include Pujol or Quintonil, the fine dining scene is not limited to those notable two. There are many restaurants using French or Italian techniques with fresh, local Mexican produce. I will highlight several of these below in the ‘Where to eat in Mexico City’ section. 

Bonus: Experience the greenery/walk & explore 

I may have just completed the three most basic recommendations with a fourth obvious one, but again, I think it’s worth being explicit about. Because Ubers are so inexpensive (reason 439 why I love CDMX), I think a lot of people Uber everywhere and forgo walking. Mexico City is absolutely, stunningly green (yes, I know the air quality is not wonderful) and extremely walkable. A trip to Mexico City would not be complete without walking down Paseo de la Reforma or through Bosque de Chapultepec or Parque México. 

Skip ahead!

Skip to What to expect your first time in Mexico City? 

Skip to How long should I stay in Mexico City?

Skip to When should I go to Mexico City?

Skip to Where to stay in Mexico City? 

Skip to What to do in Mexico City?

Skip to Where to eat in Mexico City?

Skip to Where to drink in Mexico City?

Skip to Day trips from Mexico City

Skip to Where to head next from Mexico City? 

What to expect your first time in Mexico City?

Energy/People

Mexico City is home to a lot of people (~9M or greater than that of NYC). Greater Mexico City is 21M+ people making it the second largest metro area in the Western Hemisphere (bonus points if you knew number one is Sao Paulo). While you won’t see all 9M people, you will see, hear and feel many of them–there is a LOT of energy in this city.

Pink Taxis 

I had previously seen Mexican restaurants back home depicting white and green taxi cabs in Mexico City. Imagine my surprise, my first in the city surrounded by an ocean of pink. Nothing too riveting here: the city rebranded their taxi fleet back in 2014.

Lots of Taquerias 

You are never very far from a taqueria in Mexico City. A study found there are more taquerias in Mexico than schools, and that almost everyone in Mexico is within a quarter mile of a taqueria. In Mexico City, they found the nearest taqueria to two famous monuments were 176 meters (~575 ft) and 152 meters (~500 ft)  away respectively. You will frequently be surrounded by savory scents and spectacles of folks frying and chopping meat at all hours. 

Greenery & Parks 

I know I keep talking about it, but you will be surprised and delighted by how much green you see in Mexico City. In addition to the beautiful parks, streets are lined with plenty of gorgeous foliage. 

Cobblestones & Euro Vibes

A lot of people frequently mistake photos and videos of Mexico City with somewhere in Europe. There are many cobblestoned streets and colonial architecture scattered throughout the city that will have you questioning what continent you’re in. 

Some Petty Crime 

While Mexico has–for the most part–shed it’s negative international reputation (or at least in the US), it isn’t exactly Singapore or Helsinki. Like many other big cities (think Rome or Barcelona), there is petty crime (read pickpocketing/ruses/scams). While this is in no way an attempt to discourage you from visiting, it’s just a reminder to be extra careful in all major cities. Lastly, while I have never had an issue walking around at night, I have heard from friends issues with police at night in certain neighborhoods. Because of that, it might be in your best interest to Uber home at night. 

How long should I stay in Mexico City?

I think most people who visit Mexico City go for a long weekend. I’d suggest at least four nights as that gives you three full days. Sure, you can do less, and you can absolutely do more, but I think four nights is the sweet (minimum) spot (many trips I have done Thursday-Monday). Mexico City is not a city you need to worry about seeing everything or being left bored, and I would always advocate for as much time as you can spend–especially if you plan on taking/doing any day trips. 

When should I go to Mexico City?

I have visited Mexico City during several different times of the year. My first trip was in December for New Year’s Eve followed by a trip the following December then January. I spent the next handful of Memorial Day Weekends (May) and a Presidents’ Day Weekend or two (February) before staying this past June. I have never had any weather issues any time I have visited. 

Mexico has two distinct seasons: rainy (and warm) and dry (but colder). October-May might be the ideal time to come (little to no rain) but extra ideal Nov-April (virtually no rain, but much cooler. From October to April it can get down to 45˚F with December and January getting below 45˚. From March to June, the city can get between 75-85˚F. The rainy season is typically mid-June through mid-September. Unlike many places, I don’t think you need to factor in the weather much when planning a trip and would jump at a good flight deal if time away allowed. 

Where to stay in Mexico City?

I have stayed in many different neighorboods across my multiple stays. My first trip I stayed in Centro followed by a second trip closer to Alameda Park. I later stayed in Polanco, Roma Norte and Condesa. Most recently we stayed in San Rafael. I share this to put you at ease that it almost doesn’t matter where you stay as most neighborhoods are fairly accessible to one another. While I understand most of the world isn’t neurotic as I am, I would suggest pinning a few of the top places you want to see and staying as close to those as you can. Additionally, I’ll give my high-level top three recommendations on where to stay below.

Centro/Alameda

If this is your first time visiting Mexico City and you are into history and seeing the sites, this is probably where I’d recommend for you. You’ll get the classic feel of Mexico, be close to the main sites, and have plenty of good food options around. This is also where the bulk of the city’s hotels are (though you won’t have issues finding Airbnbs here either). 

Roma Norte/Juárez/Condesa

These are three fairly distinct neighborhoods, but I am combining them because they border one another (more or less). I hate using the word “hip”, but that’s probably what describes this area–either that or gentrified. This is where the bulk of my favorite restaurants and bars are. If you’ve been to Mexico City before or don’t care about the historical sites, this is definitely where I’d recommend. See below sections on eating and drinking to give you more of a feel on Roma vs Juarez vs Condesa. 

Polanco

This is the posh, luxury neighborhood of Mexico City where you will find restaurants like Pujol and Quintonil. This neighborhood is in the northwest part of the city and not really nearby any other neighborhoods. If safety and things just being nice and modern are most important to you, this is where I would recommend. 

What to do in Mexico City?

Walk/Explore

You don’t need me to tell you how/where to get out there and explore, but I can point you in a few directions. Generally, I would try to dedicate a day to each of the neighborhoods you are interested in seeing (hop back to ‘Where to stay in Mexico City’). Exploring distinct neighborhoods is a great way to get a feel of the city in general and help you decide where you’ll want to stay if when you come back. 

I mentioned a few places to walk/explore above, but as a reminder, Alameda Park, Parque Mexico, and Bosque de Chapultepec are great parks to go. Paseo de la Reforma (can take this to Bosque de Chapultepec!), Alvaro Obregon, Colima, and Havre are all great streets to walk.

Activities

I’m not a big activity guy. When I travel, I enjoy walking around, eating (‘Where to eat in Mexico City’), and drinking ‘Where to drink in Mexico City’). I’ll also be the first to admit that my blog will never be the go-to for activities or things to do. However, I can share a few of the main attractions, museums, and things I hear other people frequently talk about.

The sites: the cathedral & Zocalo (mentioned above), National Palace, Palace of Fine Arts

Museums: National Anthropology Museum, MOMA (RIP this is closed now), Soumaya (highly recommend), Museo Jumex

Walking tours: not my thing but am sure there are many; Google’s your friend

Cooking classes: not my cup of tea, but Airbnb experiences should have you covered  

Where to eat in Mexico City?

Alright, now this is what I’m talking about. While I’m sure I will do a much more in depth review of the best places to eat and drink in Mexico City a la Puerto Vallarta (https://intristang.com/best-places-to-eat-drink-pv/), let’s starts with a few of my faves per neighborhood (e.g.: neighborhood: brunch or lunch/dinner spot).

Centro: El Cardenal or Los Cocuyos

We’re starting with the fire here. If I had to give one recommendation for eating out in Mexico City, I think I’d choose El Cardenal. El Cardenal does a great job of staying classic without becoming irrelevant. I always have high expectations before eating there and have never been let down. They have several locations, but I prefer the Centro location best. El Cardenal is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but I prefer going for brunch (though I often end up ordering their lunch plates–enchiladas–for brunch).

Keeping the fire going, Los Cocuyos are my favorite tacos in Mexico City. At this point, after eating there several times, I don’t think I will ever be able to change my mind. They are open 24 hours, are cash only, and do not have seating (pro tip: you can get drinks and a table at the bar next door). 

Juarez: Cafe NIN or Masala y Maiz 

Cafe NIN (previously Panaderia Rosetta Havre) is a great way to kick off your Saturday morning. The Rosetta restaurant family (Cafe NIN, Panaderia Rosetta, Rosetta, Lardo) all have fantastic pastries. In addition to their baked goods, there are several larger, protein-heavier dishes available, great coffee, cocktails, and a wonderful ambiance. Get there before 10am on the weekend, or you will be waiting for a while. 

Masala y Maiz is not a fusion restaurant and doesn’t want to be called one. They use techniques and ingredients from Indian, Mexican, and East African cuisines and the end result is a symphony of flavors. Their concept and menu is extremely original as is their wine list. We went for an early lunch, but I plan to go back to try their Saturday brunch.

Roma: Panaderia Rosetta (same as Cafe NIN basically) or Maximo 

Panaderia Rosetta is the original bakery of the group and only a 15 minute or so walk. While I like eating inside at Cafe NIN, I prefer eating outside in Panaderia Rosetta’s newish parklette. I follow Panaderia Rosetta on Instagram and love popping in whenever they release (or re-release) a new pastry or baked good. Most recently their fig berlinesas. 

Maximo Bistrot might take my nod for favorite restaurant in Mexico City. At Maximo you can expect modern, French techniques with local, Mexican ingredients. The food and cocktails here are inventive and as tasty as it gets. While Maximo is higher-end, it never feels stuffy. I was meant to spend my birthday dinner here before I got sick, but this is at the top of my list to revisit once we’re back.

Condesa: Pasillo de Humo or Lardo 

Pasillo de Humo is a gorgeous, light-soaked space to start your weekend at. While the food and hot chocolate are solid, the vibe really takes the cake here. I have only had brunch here, but I plan to come back to try their lunch/dinner dishes as well as their mezcal cocktails. 

Lardo is the Rosetta restaurant group’s take on Mediterranean and does not disappoint. Expect olives and small bites to start, fried tapas like croquetas or squash blossoms to continue, before getting into their oven baked pizzas, and finally their grilled main dishes (like their octopus with red curry!). This is another spot with a light-filled space and great vibe. 

Polanco: ENO or Pujol 

These last two recommendations are both by the famous Enrique Olvera. ENO is the follow up restaurant to Pujol and sits in the heart of Polanco. I keep talking about light-filled spots with great vibes, and ENO is another restaurant that fits into that category. Eating outside on a sunny morning surrounded by the restaurant’s greenery is the best way to start their day. They also have great coffee and hearty brunch options. Most recently I had their riff on molletes (open-faced sandwich with beans and cheese in Mexican cuisine).

Pujol likely needs no introduction, with all of the Chef’s Table fame. I have only eaten here once (a few years ago), but it was quite the culinary experience. Pujol currently offers two tasting menus: their classic (which I had) along with their new taco omakase (that requires a drink pairing). If you are unable to score a reservation here, have no fear as there are plenty of other great options both in Polanco and the city itself.  

Where to drink in Mexico City? 

While I will likely do a more extensive, formal write up on drinks in my food article, let’s start with some of my favorites in each neighborhood.  For what it’s worth, I really like mezcal cocktails and that is very apparent after reviewing the following recommendations. 

Centro/Alameda: Mundana  

Mundana is a small cocktail bar–that packs a huge punch–located in Barrio Alameda, a collection of restaurants and bars on the edge of Alameda Park. Mundana’s (mostly) cocktails pack a lot of flavor–and are very boozy–for a great price. They also offer several mezcals to drink/try on their own. The only downside of Mundana is that it’s indoors where some of its Barrio Alameda peers (Cancino, Butcher & Sons) have outdoor seating and a view of the park.

Juarez: Cicatriz

Cicatriz might be my top hidden gem of Mexico City–if not, it’s certainly top two. Cicatriz was started by some folks from NYC, and while it does have a hipster vibe (I’ll take hipster over pretentious any day), they certainly know what they’re doing when it comes to cocktails–and food. It’s a very small space, but they make the most of it with multi-level seating and outdoor space. Their cocktails are inventive, delicious, and refreshing. Try their Tiburón, Tiburón (Tanqueray- orange – thyme – avocado leaf) or Yoko, their take on an Aperol Spritz (mezcal unión – grapefruit – Aperol – sparkling wine). For food, they have dishes like house-made ricotta and fried avocado sandwiches to help you keep ordering cocktails. 

Roma: Páramo 

Páramo was not what I expected. I had seen many photos online and it was always dark with strung patio lights illuminating the setting. We visited Páramo on a day that was pouring and grey and were shocked to enter their atrium-esque dining area that was somehow filled with light. The positive surprises continued as they boasted a 4+ page cocktail menu with well-below-market prices. While Páramo has several mezcal cocktails, they should have spirits for every palate and offer beer and wine, too. We didn’t try their food–we ended up having downstairs neighbor Expendio de Maiz instead–but will be back to see how they fare in the provisions game. 

Condesa: Baltra Bar

Baltra was (or maybe still is) my favorite bar in Mexico City. Baltra was a bar we found by mistake and turned out to be somewhere we’d return to many times. It’s a small but cozy space with a very good vibe (higher end-ish but not stuffy at all). The first (or maybe it was second) time we went, there was no seating available so we sat at the bar. The bartender spoke great English, and after we finished our first cocktails, he insisted we go off menu. He asked us what spirits and flavors we liked, and he made special drinks for all of us–they were all excellent. It was a fun, memorable (or not so?) night. We went back recently, and while the vibe and drinks are still great, the menu lacked an inventiveness which earned it its spot on the world’s 100 best bars. 

Polanco: Guzina Oaxaca 

Last but not least, Guzina Oaxaca. I had had Guzina on my list of places to eat for some time, but it resurfaced when I was doing research for somewhere to get cocktails during my Polanco neighborhood tour (YouTube video to come eventually). Guzina Oaxaca is–not surprisingly–known for Oaxacan cuisine and by extension mezcal drinks. While they offer classic, non-mezcal drinks as well, they are most known for their gasolina cocktails. These are (mostly?) mezcal cocktails served out of a Mobil 1 (ceramic) gas can. Not only did these cocktails taste great, but they were strong and each “drink” was more like 1.5-2 drinks once poured out of said gas can. While I haven’t tried their food, I won’t hesitate to grab drinks here anytime I’m in Polanco (maybe next time when we’re back to try El Turix or El Rey de Suadero). 

Day trips from Mexico City

If you’re doing a 4 night or–GASP–3 night trip, I’d highly recommend doing no more than 1 day trip. The reason being there is more than enough to do in Mexico City and you will save time by not being on a bus or in an Uber. 

Here are a few of the most popular day trips: 

Teotihuacan

This is one of the most popular and often done day trips. These pyramids sit about an hour north of Mexico City and can be reached by public bus or guided tour. 

Xochimilco

Just as, if not more, famous than Teotihuacan are the floating gardens of Xochilmilco. About an hour southeast of the city, you can rent a boat, drink beer, and listen to music as you float around the canals. 

Tepotzotlan 

Tepotzotlan is a small town about an hour to an hour and a half north of Mexico City. It is a lot less famous than the first two places, but it does have some ruins and hiking. We did a day trip here, my first visit to CDMX and were able to get there and back solely with public buses. In addition to the ruins and hiking, the locals seemed to think their pulque (a Mexican alcoholic drink made by fermenting sap from the maguey) was extra special.

Puebla

Another popular day trip, Puebla is about two hours east of Mexico City. In my opinion, Puebla deserves its own trip, but if you are strapped for time, it’s a great place to visit. Puebla has several famous traditional (Poblano) foods like tacos arabes (brought over from the Lebanese) and mole poblano (among many, many others). The town also has gorgeous architecture which alone is worth the busride over–in my opinion at least. 

Sud 777

First thing’s first, Sud 777 is technically in Mexico City, but it’s about a 35-40 minute Uber away from most things. Because of its distance, I’m cheating and calling it a day trip. Sud 777 is the 17th best restaurant in Latin America and somewhere I’ve wanted to go eat for quite some time.

Where to head next from Mexico City?

Most folks coming to Mexico City are only staying for a long weekend or maybe a weeklong trip, but for those that want to continue the journey here are a few logical places to head next. 

Puebla

Mentioned above. One of the most logical next stops on a Mexican itinerary. 

Oaxaca 

Often referred to as the kitchen of Mexico and the birthplace and capital of mezcal. You can get to Oaxaca from Mexico City in a little over an hour via flight or a ~6 hour bus ride. From Oaxaca, you can head to the beachy town of Puerto Escondido. 

San Miguel de Allende 

San Miguel de Allende is a gorgeous colonial town that continues to draw many retirees from the US and Canada. While San Miguel is much closer to Leon and Queretaro, many folks venturing there do so from Mexico City or Mexico City’s airport. The town is known for great year round weather, excellent dining options, rooftops/terraces, and well-preserved architecture.  

La playa! 

Tired of cities? Ditch the buses, book a flight, and head to the beach! From Mexico City you have several direct flight options to the many different beaches of Mexico. Many folks will continue their Mexican excursion to the Riviera Maya (Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, etc.), Puerto Vallarta, and/or Los Cabos.

Final thoughts

This is by no means an exhaustive list of what to do in Mexico City, but I hope after reading this, some of my love of the city has rubbed off on you. As always, please let me know your questions and thoughts in the comments. 

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