I’ve been procrastinating to write this article for quite some time. Writing about finance or cost of living is straightforward enough, but something about writing about food seems extra personal to me. To get over this procrastination hump, I’m going to open up this post to future edits so it can be more iterative and living than “final”.
Lastly, a word on how to use this post (and food/restaurant recommendations in general). When researching food for a city I haven’t been to, I like to read a handful of the top blogs and see which restaurants frequently overlap. After that, I like to find the blog that had the bulk of the most frequently mentioned restaurants and/or writing style that appealed to me. As I work off someone’s recommendations, if I like the restaurant or dish they recommend, I will try another. Different people have different tastes so you end up finding people with similar-ish tastes to you.
Below, I’ll do my best to share my take on the various restaurants as well as Yunji’s when applicable. For reference, she and I have similar tastes in restaurants but quite different palates–she is salt averse where I am anything but; I enjoy fatty, gamey meats where she prefers seafood. Finally, in almost every spot listed below, we went at least twice (which I hope provides some additional credibility).
Want to have a better idea of what a month living/working remotely in PV costs? Check out my PV Cost of Living Guide with 2 months of actual spend here.
Best Brunch Spots in Puerto Vallarta
Fredy’s (Tucan), Zona Romantica & Fluvial ⭐
I was gutted when I learned Fredy’s was under construction, and I wouldn’t be able to eat there. Fredy’s is one of the most frequently cited top restaurants in PV especially when talking about brunch. When I found out they had another location–the under construction location was in Zona Romantica/downtown where we stayed first–I found some relief but didn’t think we’d actually go. It turned out that the second, newer (and open) Fredy’s was walking distance (well, for us) from our second Airbnb in Versalles. Fredy’s second location in Fluvial turned out to be much nicer (IMO) than the original both in the building/layout as well as the location. The Fluvial area might actually be my favorite in all of PV, and I expect it to keep growing over the coming years.
Anyways, back to Fredy’s. There’s a reason so many blogs reference Fredy’s: the food is great, prices are fair, and service is great. I can’t speak for the vibe/ambiance at the Zona Romantica location, but I loved eating at the Fluvial branch–half of the space is outdoor seating and it all opens up, so even if you’re inside it’s half-open and airy (also great for COVID times).
Fredy’s has a great variety of fresh pan dulce (baked goods), fresh juices (didn’t try but looked bomb), “breakfast” cocktails, and of course food. We went to Fredy’s four times and I ordered Northern Mexican machado (dried, spiced meat) with eggs, eggs benedict, and the Campesino Breakfast (arrachera/skirt steak with red chilaquiles, a fried egg, and refried beans)–which they’re famous for–twice. Yunji ordered an open-faced lox bagel, their answer to a Grand Slam (pancakes, sausage, eggs, and hashbrowns), and two different omelettes (which I can’t find the names of). My favorite was the Campesino, but I really liked both of Yunji’s omelettes, too.
⭐ = top/favorite spot
La Palapa, Zona Romantica
La Palapa is another name that you’re certain to hear of when looking for the best places to eat in PV. Our first meal in PV was brunch at La Palapa, and I was impressed. I expected not to like La Palapa for two reasons: 1) it seemed almost too popular; 2) its on-the-beach location spelled trouble for me–usually when popular restaurants have great locations like this they rely more on that than their food. For La Palapa, I was happily wrong. The food was extremely well executed. They offer cocktails all day (not fantastic cocktails but pretty good). The fact that you’re eating on the sand and can pop into the water at any time is great. Finally, the service is solid but a little pushy and expectant.
We went to La Palapa twice and enjoyed the food and cocktails on both occasions. I ordered blue crab eggs benedict with a chipotle sauce, hashbrown and asparagus and chilaquiles with red and green sauce and eggs. Yunji ordered the shrimp, egg and spinach crepes. The crab benedict and crepes were bomb!
Pancake House, Zona Romantica
This was another place I didn’t expect to like. I’m not sure if it was the name or how many tourists seemed to bring it up, but, again, I was happily surprised. The prices here are by far the lowest of the places I have mentioned, and the portions might be the largest. While there are a decent amount of tourists that come here, there are also a lot of locals. Of the three spots, if you arrive past 10 am, definitely expect to wait.
While Pancake House is known for–you guessed it–pancakes, I thought their eggs benedict were so good I ordered them both times we came here. They are definitely a touch different than your typical eggs benedict, but the portions were massive and I loved their Hollandaise. Yunji ordered their pancakes the first time and their benedict the second time.
Honorable mentions: Cafe de Olla, Florios, and Coco’s Kitchen
Cafe de Olla and Florios are both restaurants that will make appearances below. The reason they are listed here is that we never got a chance to try their brunches (but wanted to!).
Coco’s Kitchen is another establishment that comes up quite frequently for brunch. In addition to wanting to try their food, I’d also like to check out their al fresco/garden dining ambience.
Best Cheap Eats & Lunches In Puerto Vallarta
Pancho’s (Takos), Zona Romantica ⭐
The absolute number one place you will (or have already heard) hear about is Pancho’s Takos. When we originally arrived in PV, Pancho’s (and Cafe de Olla–mentioned below) were both closed for their owners/staff to take vacation. Within a week or so, Pancho’s was back open and the lines to enter were alive and well. Our Airbnb location was as good as it gets in Zona Romantica, so we were lucky to be able to transition from pool to front of the line 15 minutes before opening.
The tacos–and food in general–and drinks– at Pancho’s are all fantastic. After having plenty of excellent Al Pastor tacos both in LA and Mexico City, I was shocked at how good these were. I don’t want to talk too much about the tacos (or tortas) as I will do a separate standalone writeup on best tacos (and tortas), but suffice it to say they were amazing. Additionally, Pancho’s had one of the best margaritas I had in PV–definitely get one Pancho’s Style with a Coronita tucked in upside down. Their apps: cellobitas asada (grilled green onions) and quesos fundidos (mini cheese fondues) were also super yummy.
We came here three times, and as I am writing this, I wish we went more times. The place I probably think about most from PV is Pancho’s, and it’d be one of the first places I’d go back. A few additional things to note, for Yunji the marinade/char on the Al Pastor gave her chocolate-y vibes that made the Al Pastor something she didn’t love. I didn’t pick up on this and thoroughly enjoyed the Al Pastor. Unless you get there before opening, it is highly likely you will wait in line. I think the line dies back down again at 7 or 8 (or 2 hours after opening). Depending on how close you are to the front of the line, you can order drinks while waiting. Lastly, the biggest downside of this place is the “Ugly American” or gringo overload vibe. There were way too many (80%?) loud, obnoxious Americans ignoring Covid standards and being rude/condescending to staff. This is the one thing that made it hard for me to enjoy Pancho’s. Overall, I highly recommend going here (although you were probably already going to go :D).
One last thing to note, most people see Pancho’s recommendations alongside Pepe’s tacos. Because I am going to write a separate article re: tacos and because I think Pancho’s is firmly better than Pepe’s in almost every way, I didn’t want to give a section to Pepe’s. Feel free to try Pepe’s in addition to Pancho’s, and stay tuned to see my favorite item from Pepe’s in my next post.
Restaurante Dianita, Zona Romantica
This is a restaurant I’m not sure how to recommend. During our first week in PV I think we went here three or four days in a row. Dianita is a “Comida Corrida” restaurant, which basically means revolving menu or menu of the day. If you come here for lunch (as we did), you can order off the menu of the day where you will receive: the agua fresca (refreshing fruit drinks made simply of fruit blended with water, lime juice and a bit of sweetener) of the day, a choice of soup, and a choice of the main dishes of the day. I enjoyed how the items changed each day and the food itself. The price point for all the food is great, too, as all of the above comes out to ~$4.
The reason I’m not sure how to recommend this is because if you’re only in town for a long weekend or week, I’m not sure this is a must-go-to spot. However, if you’re staying in PV long term, I can definitely see this place becoming a mainstay. Also worth mentioning, fantastic service and super friendly owner and staff.
Cafe de Olla, Zona Romantica
Next door to Pancho’s and almost rivaling their fame (and wait times) is Cafe de Olla. Cafe de Olla is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (with the bulk of folks going for breakfast), but we went twice: once for lunch and once for dinner. The menu is simple, but basically everything is good–including their margaritas (super strong).
When we went for lunch, I ordered enchiladas while Yunji got a shrimp burger, and when we went back for dinner, I got the ribs while Yunji got the Camarones a la Diabla (garlic and chili pepper shrimp). This is another place with friendly staff and excellent service.
El Carboncito, 5 de Diciembre
While I did omit Pepe’s, I did want to include my second-favorite Al Pastor taco spot: El Carboncito. After a little extra digging on top tacos, this is the place that managed to sneak up quite often. Where they lack the vibe of Pancho’s (you’re a block or so from the beach but basically in a shed), they make up for in flavor. The char and grill flavor of these Al Pastor tacos and their salsas are fire! Top off (or kickstart) dinner with drinks at nearby El Solar (mentioned below).
Proyecto Hamburguesa, Versalles
This is probably a bit more obscure place that many guides/blogs won’t bring up. Proyecto Hamburguesa–or Project Hamburger–is a tiny hamburger spot in the Versalles neighborhood. They offer a selection of burgers and hotdogs each served with perfectly cooked potato wedges. We only went once, but this is somewhere I’d happily go back to. I ordered their Tuetano burger with grilled onions, gouda cheese, and a massive tuetano (or bone marrow) on the side.
Los Muertos Brewing, Zona Romantica & Versalles
Los Muertos is getting a nod under cheap eats/lunch instead of drinks below for one reason: I actually like their food (read: pizza) more than their beers. We initially went to their brewery in Zona Romantica for a few afternoon pints (beers were fine but not that good) where we learned of their lunch special (slice of pizza, fries, and a beer for ~$4) before visiting their Versalles branch for said lunch special. The pizza–and the fries–were much better than expected, and when you can get an IPA basically for free, it tastes better. If you have a craving for a slice of pizza and need a break from your Corona or Modello (or Victoria!), I’d recommend hitting either location for their lunch special.
Best Higher-end and Dinner Options In Puerto Vallarta
Maria Baja, Zona Romantica ⭐
Placing Maria Baja in the “higher-end and dinner options” might be a bit of a miscategorization as we only had lunch there–albeit three times. However, while Maria Baja isn’t expensive, I definitely do think it’s higher end in both flavors, execution and vibe. This is another place I wish I would’ve found out about earlier into our trip (I surprisingly learned about Maria Baja via–gasp–TripAdvisor) and is somewhere I think about often and would immediately go back to. Maria Baja basically does seafood tapas.
I don’t think I had a single bad item in our three (or four?) visits here, and at least two of my absolute favorite bites of the trip came from here. I also like the airy ambiance and the non-pretentious vibe (food is expertly prepared yet it’s BYOB–can buy and bring in beer from the convenience store next door). In addition to tapas and smaller bites, Maria Baja also offers poke and burritos.
Florios, 5 de Diciembre & Versalles
I think Florios might do the best job of striking a great balance between great food and a sophisticated ambiance without being stuck up/pretentious (see La Leche below). Florios is an Italian/Argentinian restaurant that serves pastas, excellent pizzas, and Argentinian favorites like milanesas. We visited both locations: their main, central one in 5 de Diciembre and their newer, smaller spot in Versalles.
For Yunji’s birthday, we went to their original location and had some of the best cocktails of the trip (pineapple basil margaritas), a fantastic soup (crema del dia), tasty pasta (fettuccine with alfredo and shrimp), and one of our favorite pizza combos: gorgonzola, pear, walnuts, and honey. When we were staying in Versalles and craving pizza, we checked out their new location and got the same pizza with some wine and Negronis. During this second dinner, the waiter shared their Sunday brunch menu with us–which looked great–but we ran out of time before getting a chance to visit.
Lamara, Versalles
This was another hidden gem we found that quickly became one of our favorites. Lamara does seafood tapas in the form of tostadas (stacked super high with said seafood). Their menu has a different array of sauces with different seafood (think octopus vs ahi). Each time we went we ordered three items and it was always plenty filling as they stack the seafood high and additional tostadas come on the side.
Lamara was another place with a great vibe that wasn’t pretentious that also had great prices and excellent, friendly service. Lastly, their cocktails are fantastic–and super inexpensive. Whether you have a big or small appetite, this place is the perfect place to go for food and drinks.
Oregano, Versalles
I’m not sure why we were craving Caribbean/cajun, but we stumbled across two restaurants that piqued our interest: Oregano and Capitán Cajun (they both happen to be on the same street not even a block apart). We ended up choosing Oregano as it seemed more boutique than commercial–it ended up being a great choice (not to knock Capitán but to say Oregano was great!).
Yunji ordered the Caribbean curry with rice, and I got the braised oxtails that came with red beans and rice and salad. We also ordered some white wine and had some mojitos. The execution and flavors were excellent as were the drinks. I am starting to get hungry writing this and would like to have this for lunch now.
El Brujo, Zona Romantica
So, the vibe here is, let’s say traditional. This is not where you go to be seen, however if you’d like to try some unique Mexican food, this is a great spot. Like crab? Great. Want to try fermented corn fungus (AKA Mexican corn truffle)? Come on over. Enjoy cheap, but strong margaritas? Okay, this place is for you.
We kicked things off with two–potent–margaritas. While these margaritas taste more akin to what you’d get at a dive bar with premade mix, they were cheap and were strong–so no complaints. Yunji ordered the Brujo Negro: stuffed fish fillet with shrimp and cuitlacoche (Mexican corn truffle), with cream sauce served with rice and corn, while I ordered their famous Santa Cruz: crab-stuffed fish with spinach and cheese covered with chipotle sauce, served with refried beans and a crab enchilada. I loved my dish and thought their offerings were quite unique.
Others to Consider
Don’t want to spend a ton of time on these but wanted to shed a little light.
Cafe de Artistes, 5 de Diciembre
Probably the fine dining institution of PV. I’m not a white tablecloth guy so we decided to abstain.
La Leche, Zona Hotelera
Went here for dinner and enjoyed the apps (more so than the mains), but the vibe was stuffy and the service was absolutely awful. This is the kind of place that asks if you have a reservation even when the place is almost empty then forces you to sit at the bar. People come here to be seen and take photos for Instagram. Again, the apps/food were great, mains left a little to be desired, and the drinks were good (though not inventive) but we ended up having issues with one of the servers over our bill (he had upsold us without us knowing). The bill ended up getting settled properly but he actually yelled at us–I was shocked. Go here at your own peril 😀 Also, feel free to read reviews on Google (not Yelp–sorry Connie).
Barrio Bistro, Versalles
If Cafe de Artistes is the fine dining destination of PV, then Barrio Bistro is the spot in Versalles. Barrio Bistro is less pretentious than La Leche but still has an air to it. Unlike La Leche, I actually strongly preferred the mains to the apps. Also unlike La Leche, the drinks are good and inventive. Now that I’m writing this and thinking about it more, maybe I should have included Barrio Bistro in my top dinner/higher-end category. I’ll have to go back and try it again now!
El Dorado, Zona Romantica
El Dorado is the higher-end sister restaurant of above-mentioned (and next door to) La Palapa. While the food (lobster tacos!) was great. The service was almost as poor as La Leche. After not ordering drinks and only ordering food, we never saw our waiter again and I had to go inside to the bar to get my check and pay. I’d rather go back to La Palapa but might give this spot another chance.
Best Drinks & Bars in Puerto Vallarta
1000 Caguamas, 5 de Diciembre ⭐
Went here SIX times, so that might be all you need to know. A caguama is basically a ~32-40oz of beer. Here you can order apps/snacks as well as a handful of caguamas (all that beer for ~$3!). Each time we came here we tried a different version of their aguachiles (think ceviche but with whole shrimp) starting with their spiciest habanero and orange sauce. In addition to their aguachiles, their chips (which have the same sauces as the aguachiles available) are also fantastic. Depending on how busy it is and how lucky you get, you can have a rooftop seat with a view of the ocean. We ate plenty and imbibed thoroughly here and never spent more than $15 on any occasion.
Monzon (Brewing Co.), Zona Romantica
I mentioned omitting Los Muertos Brewing previously in favor of their lunch combo. The reason was quite simple: Monzon brews and serves the best beer you can get in PV. Monzon was started by a husband-wife pair from Seattle (I think), and they take their brews seriously! In addition to beer, they had a solid spirit selection and a full food menu (though we never ate). We went here twice and tried most of the beers they had available and were never disappointed.
El Solar, 5 de Diciembre
Mentioned above next to El Carboncito, El Solar is a bit of a hidden gem. El Solar has tables and chairs on the beach, without any weird upsells/charges and WITH yummy, inexpensive cocktails. Watching the sunset here with a cucumber mezcal cocktail for about ~$4 before you cram your face with Al Pastor tacos around the corner? Sign me up!
iK (Mixology Bar), Zona Romantica
iK is a beachside cocktail bar with solid service and fantastic cocktails. While we only went once, we tried a handful of cocktails and a glass of wine and everything was superb. This place could’ve easily been pretentious a la La Leche, but the service was excellent and friendly and the drinks were inexpensive for how inventive, tasty and potent they were.
Places I Want to Go Next Time in Puerto Vallarta
El Arrayan, 5 de Diciembre
This was one of the top spots I wanted to go to, but it was closed for renovation the entirety of our trip. And after Googling it, it looks like it is unfortunately closed. RIP El Arrayan
icu, Zona Hotelera
This is another high brow, fine dining establishment but it was actually included in Culinaria Mexicana’s top ~100 restaurants. I might decide to roll the dice on the snob factor for some inventive food here next time.
Joe Jack, Zona Romantica
Walked by this spot more than I can remember. They are known for two things: fish and chips and mojitos. If/when we go back to PV, I want to go try both.
OPA Greek Bistro or Restaurante Mykonos, Versalles
Similar to the Cajun/Carribean situation above, Versailles has two Greek restaurants next door. While we ran out of time to try either, I would love to go get some lamb and saganaki at either on next time!
Final Thoughts
Okay, so that was a lot more restaurants than I intended to write about, but hopefully that gives you a better idea of the PV dining and drinking scene–and of the type of places I like to eat. As a follow up, I plan to write an article purely about the top taco and torta spots (and attempt to rank them?) as well as my top 10 (or so) favorite bites I enjoyed in PV.
Did I miss one of your favorite spots? Is there a place I should try next time? Do you have any questions about any of the spots I mentioned? Please let me know in the comments!
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